Review #154: Frey Ranch Uncut Batch #12

COST: $80 MSRP for 750mL bottle (I’m reviewing a sample)

AGE: 5 yrs

MASH BILL: 66.6% corn, 11.4% Winter rye, 10% Soft White Winter wheat, 12% two-row barley malt

PROOF: 121.76

I love the increased focus on farm-to-glass movement that has been underway in the American whiskey scene for probably the better part of a decade, but it seems like it has really gained speed in recent years. While I think a big brand like Heaven Hill has really brought attention to it on a large scale with the release of their Grain to Glass series, there have been smaller distillers that farm-to-glass has been how they've done business for years. Frey Ranch is one of those distillers. 

Located a little east of Reno, Nevada, Frey Ranch operates a couple thousand acres of farmland where they grow all the grains they use, including making their own malted barley. Other than the cooperage aspect, Frey Ranch has an increased sensitivity to all aspects that go into making whiskey: land management, crop selection, yield per acre vs quality, weather and growing challenges, distillation and aging capacity to meet demand, etc. However, they have never sourced distillate, and while they've experimented with non-native grain varietals, they've grown all their own grain. They have chosen one of the toughest paths to prosperity in the whiskey industry, but one out of passion and a desire to be 100% their own, authentic, and what they want to be.

Frey Ranch has released its whiskey at 90 proof since they started bottling their four-grain bourbon in 2019. However, in 2023 they began releasing a “Farm Strength” uncut version of each batch of bourbon they made alongside the standard 90 proof version. I'm not certain when batch 12 was released exactly, but this is my first time trying a batched Frey Ranch expression. I did previously review a single barrel expression that just didn't quite resonate with me. But, single barrels can be hit and miss. With a batched version I would expect Frey Ranch not to miss.

I'm currently on a road trip hitting up Joshua Tree National Park, Zion National Park, and Death Valley National Park. In setting off for this trip I brought along a few 2 oz samples to enjoy from fireside or on a hiking trail looking at some of America’s most beautiful landscapes. I brought this sample along knowing I would be crossing through the motherland of Frey Ranch - Nevada. Other than a stop at Hoover Dam tomorrow though, we're not really stopping in Nevada. So, since this is our last night in Joshua Tree before driving through Nevada to go to Zion, I figured I'd enjoy this one watching the sunset on the beautiful rocks here at Joshua Tree in my campervan company branded plastic juice glass. Let's check it out!

Reviewed neat in a…campervan branded plastic juice glass. (Notes are before pairing with a cigar unless otherwise noted.)

NOSE: Sweet notes of homemade caramel, kettle corn, and vanilla candle lead into a very herbaceous and a little funky/earthy nose with fennel, frankincense, clove, and a little saffron.

PALATE: This leads with a toasted sweetness: grilled peaches, slightly burnt vanilla bean, salted caramel, and roasted sweet corn. The spices from the nose show up with less funk and more bite: fennel, clove, cinnamon, and white pepper. There's a definite charred oak note, boarding charcoal character with deep earthiness and an almost smokiness. As I describe this I realize there's something unique about this that I cannot define and my notes are trying to define it with traditional bourbon notes. But there's something earthy and grainy about this that is difficult to put a finger on. Spice dominates this for the most part though, and there is a little ethanol character that helps boost that. The mouthfeel is a bit on the thinner side at first, but after pairing with a Maduro cigar it was rather creamy on the palate.

FINISH: The finish is long and earthy. Maybe it's the campfire I'm enjoying this by, but I'm getting a lot of toasted and smoky notes. Charred oak really dominates, slightly burnt caramel, a smoky herbaceous note like a burnt sage or fennel, dried apricots, nutmeg, and a dusting of cinnamon powder giving this a bite.

RATING: 7.1/10

VALUE: 7.0/10 (This is an attempt to take into account price, tasting rating, age, and proof. See my spreadsheet for more details.)

OVERALL: Going into it I did not know how toasty and charred this pour was going to be. It complemented the campfire quite nicely! There's a prominent and unique earthiness and spice to this that I can only contribute to the grain selection and being Frey Ranch grown. When I paired this with a cigar it really pushed the sweetness a little more and nullified some of the more charred or smoky notes. (Also, I've used the term “smoky” and its variants a few times throughout this review. I don't want to give the impression this is like a peated scotch or anything. It's more describing the toasty and wood char like character than it is smoky BBQ or smoked malts.) This was overall a much better experience than the Frey Ranch SiB I tried a year or so back. It was still a little hot on the palate and a little ethanol there, and while I didn't dilute it, I'm certain it wouldn't take much water to wash that ethanol out. There's a lot to like about what Frey Ranch is doing I'm looking forward to the growth of this brand! 

1 | Disgusting | ...I've not subjected myself to this level

2 | Poor | Balcones Lineage

3 | Bad | High West Double Rye, Jefferson's Ocean 28

4 | Sub-par | Weller's SR, Woodford Reserve Distiller's Select

5 | Good | Buffalo Trace, Sazerac Rye, Green River Wheated

6 | Very Good | Blanton's, Holladay Bourbons, Eagle Rare

7 | Great | Baker's 7yr SiB, BBCo Origin High Wheat, 1792 BiB

8 | Excellent | Most ECBP batches, JD SiB BiB, High West MWND Act 11

9 | Incredible | Woodford Reserve Batch Proof 121.2, BBC DS #7, Four Roses OESQ

10 | Perfect | Found North Batch 08